The new meatloaf

Those with a certain length of perspective will recall how, in the early 90s, meatloaf and mac and cheese began to appear on the menus of stylish urban restaurants: enhanced comfort foods in the post-Milken Bush I recession which assured us that the "greed is good" ethos applied to others and not us and connected us back to our wholesome Mayberry roots (and eventually shifted a good deal of economic power to Bentonville, Arkansas).

What will be the new comfort food? The food which will demonstrate a symbolic return to our roots, a productivist mirage? Or has the homey already been so thoroughly simulacralized as to be not even resurrectable? Perhaps it will be Naan and saag panir.